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On the tamale trail

Where culture and history meet the Southern belly

At John's Hot Tamales drive-thru in Cleveland, Miss., and throughout the Delta, tamales are hand-rolled by the dozens.
At John's Hot Tamales drive-thru in Cleveland, Miss., and throughout the Delta, tamales are hand-rolled by the dozens.


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I’m in the kitchen of an 82-year-old tamalemaking fiddle-player from Greenville, Mississippi. He’s giving me, two friends, a photographer, and a television crew an impromptu concert while we wait for his tamales to cook in his restaurant, Maria’s, which is actually not a restaurant but more like a storage building behind his house.


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This article was published August 3, 2008 at 5:18 a.m.

Perspective, Pages 87, 89, 92 on 08/03/2008


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