RESTAURANTS: Creative crepes stars of Starving Artist’s brunch
By Jennifer Christman (Contact)
Brunch items at Starving Artist Cafe include Chicken and Asiago Crepes (left)
Sake Bloody Marys, Nutella and Orange Crepes, Quiche and Mimosas.
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LITTLE ROCK — We’re not usually brunch people.
The thought of dressing up for an elaborate, pricey, too-filling yet not-too-satisfying meal (have we ever encountered a Benedict that really dazzled us?) on a sleepy Sunday usually just makes us want to cower under the covers and never come out.
But two recent brunches at downtown’s easygoing Starving Artist Cafe made us glad we got out of bed. What’s more, the meals weren’t so heavy that we were crawling back in bed immediately after.
Sure, “Art” appears in the restaurant’s name, and crepes make up the majority of the menu, but there is nothing fussy about brunch at the downtown eatery, where the natural light is kind to drowsy eyes and the paintings that cover the deep red walls (and sometimes a painter laboring on a masterpiece right there in the restaurant) offer plenty of visual stimulation to those who aren’t yet ready for too much of the verbal variety. Padded wooden chairs are comfy enough for those who plan on parking for a while, and the staff has a good grasp on whento be attentive and when to disappear.
The restaurant wasn’t crowded either time we went. Only a few other tables filled while we dined. Most brunchers probably just don’t know downtown isn’t completely dormant on Sundays.
Having been presented with many a prolonged, demanding brunch menu over the years, we appreciated Starving Artist’s simple, if nontraditional approach: Four kinds of savory crepes (served with fruit), four kinds of sweet crepes, one quiche of the day (served with mixed greens) and five paninis (served with potatoes or chips). We also appreciated the price: all items $6.95. Soup ($1.50 with brunch item, $2.50-$4 separately) and salads ($3.50-$6.25) are other options. Brunch cocktails include mimosas ($4.50) and bloody Marys ($5.50) made with sake.
It’s brunch without “brunch.” No omelets, waffles, muffins, bacon, sausage or eggs Benedict. And we found we didn’t miss them at all.
Trust us, and skip over the sweet crepes ... at least at first. Sure, Nutella and Orange Crepes, thin pancakes embracing the lavish chocolate-hazelnut spread, topped with an orange marmalade, whipped cream and powdered sugar, are really hard to resist. But they’re heftier in calories than sustenance. So go with a heartier entree. Then share sweet crepes for dessert.
We enjoyed the interesting Shrimp and Asiago Crepes, two hot bundles featuring a decent amount of shellfish and sharp asiago cheese, served with a seasoned blush sauce. A side of fruit accompanied the dish, which was satisfying for one meal although maybe not enough for two.
A friend reported that her Italian Panini, stacked with salami, mortadella, pastrami and mozzarella and basil mayo, punctuated with a pickle spear and toothpick, was tasty: “Great bread, crispy on the outside, but not tough. The filling was adequate ... but they could’ve put a little more on it.” She liked the flavor of the herb-roasted potatoes.
A special of the day, a Salmon Salad ($8.50) was a fluffy nest of greens, tomato and some olives, joined by perfectly cooked, delicate-tasting poached salmon. Served, as requested, with the tomato-tarragon vinaigrette on the side, it was a virtuous choice that made us feel better about our next one - Strawberry Crepes, featuring fresh sweet-tart berries and plenty of lush whipped cream.
Brunch at Starving Artist Cafe Address: 416 W. Seventh St., Little Rock Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday Cuisine: Crepes, paninis, quiche, salad Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V Alcohol: Beer, wine after noon Wheelchair accessible: Yes Reservations: Yes (501) 372-7976 www.starvingartistcafe.net
This article was published Friday, May 9, 2008.
Weekend, Pages 93 on 05/09/2008
