THE perfect hamburger

By Diane Rossen Worthington TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES

LITTLE ROCK — Memorial Day weekend is coming up, and it's time to fire up the barbecue grill and cook up tasty hamburgers. Memorial Day weekend is the signal that summer is just around the corner. Everyone has his own opinion as to what makes a great hamburger. Certainly one thing is the quality of the beef, but there are also other touches. My goal is to make sure the burgers are really juicy.

I have tried countless combinations of ground meat and fat percentages. I can tell you this for sure: Use either ground chuck with a fat content of at least 15 percent -- even more if possible -- or have your butcher grind a small brisket. The key is to have the meat put through a coarse chili grind so that the texture is just right. (You can also “grind” the meat in your food processor using the pulse feature until the meat has a coarse grind). If you arethinking this is too much fat, remember that the burger shrinks as it cooks, mostly because the fat drips off. To me, if you are going to make a delicious, juicy hamburger, it is worth the extra calories.

Figure about a half-pound per burger, and handle the meat lightly so it will be juicy. If the meat becomes very compact the burger may resemble the texture of meatloaf more than a moist burger. I put an indentation into the middle of each patty so that the final hamburger ends up flat rather than round. It is also helpful if you are putting cheese on top. Just before cooking sprinkle with coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Make sure the fire is medium-high heat, and not too high, because you can end up with a charred raw burger. Turn the burgers after 3 to 4 minutes and not until they release easily from the grill - a sign they are ready to be turned. How long you cook them is up to you. It isrecommended to grind your own meat if you want a rare or medium-rare burger for safety reasons. While the burgers are finishing, place the roll halves on the grill to warm them and give them light grill marks.

Now all that is needed are the condiments. If you have requests for cheeseburgers, crumbled goat or blue cheese or slices of sharp cheddar are all good choices. Grilled onions might be nice, but a dollop of caramelized onions (see recipe) is even better. (There are good-quality bottled onion relishes available if you don't have time to make them.)

For me, a crisp iceberg lettuce cup and a sweet slice of ripe tomato complete my perfect hamburger. And one more thing -- I combine a few tablespoons of my favorite steak sauce with mayonnaise and serve it in addition to the usual cast of condiments --ketchup, chili sauce, assorted mustards and mayonnaise. Enjoy!

THE PERFECT BURGER 3 pounds ground 15 percent fat or

higher chuck or beef brisket, coarsely

ground as for chili grind Coarse salt and freshly ground black

pepper 6 onion rolls or soft hamburger rolls Favorite cheese, such as crumbled blue

or goat cheese or slices of sharp

cheddar cheese 1/2 cup caramelized onions (see below)

or store-bought 6 leaves iceberg or lettuce leaves or

cups 6 thick slices tomato Favorite condiments, such as ketchup,

mustard and pickle relish

Gently shape the burger meat into six thick patties with an indentation inthe center of each one. Refrigerate until grilling.

Prepare a barbecue for medium-high heat grilling. Just before grilling, season patties with salt and pepper. Grill the burgers for about 3 to 4 minutes on first side, and then flip over and cook 4 to 6 minutes on other side for medium rare or until desired doneness. (If topping with cheese, add a couple of minutes before the burgers are done so the cheese can melt.) Grill the buns.

To serve, place burgers on toasted buns and top each burger with a tablespoon of caramelized onions. Place the lettuce and tomato on top, and finish with the top of the bun. Serve immediately. Arrange the condiments in a shallow basket.

Serves 6.

CARAMELIZED ONIONS 1/4 cup olive oil 4 large yellow or Maui onions, finely

chopped 3/4 cup red wine 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Heat oil in large nonaluminum casserole on medium high heat. Add the onions and sauté for about 10 to 15 minutes or until well softened. Stir frequently.

Add the wine, balsamic vinegar and sugar to the onions and simmer on low heat until almost all of the liquid has evaporated. The onions should be very tender and caramelized. Add the salt and pepper. Taste for seasoning. Cool and serve at room temperature.

River Valley Ozark, Pages 69 on 05/15/2008